You can’t make these statistics up. A new study from YouTube confirms that 65% of its beauty views come from makeup, with UK content powering up the rest of the world. Social media, including YouTube, is a force for change within makeup and is fueling consumer interest in new product innovation.

Despite the ramping up of activity online, sales of makeup in Western Europe have been modest, growing 2.8% in 2015 to reach $11 billion, according to Euromonitor International. The UK was the standout market for makeup, worth $2.7 billion and growing strongly at 5.9% year on year. Yet near static sales of makeup in France ($1.4 billion) and Italy ($1.2 billion) have put the brakes on total growth within the region.

Much of the UK’s growth in makeup has been generated by face products, which grew 10.5% to reach $1.1 billion in 2015. Premium foundations and concealers put in a stellar performance, as sales of these products rose 14.3% on sales of $325 million. Bases are becoming increasingly subtle and high-tech, such as Elizabeth’s Arden’s Prevage Anti-Aging Foundation that treats skin, moisturizes, and provides sun protection as well as coverage. Another is Burberry’s Bright Glow Foundation that delivers a bright glow through which skin is still visible. Some new foundations are also combined with concealer that work by applying a light layer to the face and building on areas that need more, such as Italian brand Kiko Skin Modernist 2 in 1. UK consumers are also embracing face products that bring light to the face, such as Beam Team Bronze, from The Estée Edit, Estée Lauder’s diffusion brand, which is a multi-tasking moisturizer, bronzer that gives an instant subtle glow.

According to Kantar Worldpanel, 57% of European women used makeup for the 12 months through June 2016, led by Italy (65%), Russia (68%) and Poland (70%). Russians and Poles tend to be the heaviest users of makeup, applying it 15.5 and 17.0 times a week, respectively. Clearly, makeup is part of their daily routine. Further analysis reveals that two-thirds of Russians apply makeup when getting ready for work or school, compared to the European average of 47%. Nearly half of all Polish women apply makeup before going out somewhere. By contrast, Spanish women are most likely to use makeup before socializing, but tend not to apply it in the morning. Kantar Worldpanel analysis suggests that this could be because 74% of Spanish women prefer a more natural look and use makeup for special occasions. With such wide cultural variances across Europe, there are good opportunities to target local preferences with products that fit into individual consumer lifestyles.

New Jargon
Huge changes in technology have enabled consumers to use their smartphones and tablets to take selfies and an array of filters make the end-result Instagram-worthy. Makeup brands are responding by putting a new twist on traditional products, such as foundation, highlighter and blusher, and using digital tricks such as Photoshop and filters. It’s all about giving women the tools to create a selfie-ready look. Sephora tapped into this trend with its Colorful Eyeshadow Photo Filter Palette, available in “sunbleached filter” and “overcast filter.” At the same time, the new Estée Edit Flash Photo Powder and Illuminator and Hi Lo Contour + Highlight pencil is an  easy-to-use product that allows the user to quickly achieve an Instagram-ready look.

Meanwhile, draping is the new hip term for applying blusher, but with a subtle difference. Instead of settling for just one color, draping is about adding another layer of cheek color to add a youthful flush. An example comes from cult makeup brand Le Métier de Beauté, which has launched Exquisite Kaleidoscope, a collection of four cheek colors that fan out and are designed to be used one atop the other.

Face highlighters have been around for decades, but brands are updating old favorites with the moniker “strobing” for the digital age. MAC Strobe Cream is credited with starting the trend and has been adopted by cheaper brands, including Barry M Illuminating Strobing Cream and Makeup Revolution Ultra Strobe Cream.

Contouring powders and creams have also been given a new lease on life and are often recommended to be used together with strobing products. Contouring is about applying a darker shade under the cheekbones, while strobing products are applied above to further emphasize them. To make things easier, brands are launching contouring pencils that can apply color exactly where the user wants it. Estée Lauder-owned Smashbox has been quick to jump onto the trend with a Step-by-Step Contour Stick Trio of creamy blendable sticks that enable precise application. Clinique’s Chubby Stick Sculpting Contour is a chunkier version that complements its Chubby Stick Sculpting Highlight product.

Beauty Influencers
According to Google, owner of YouTube, consumers are turning to vloggers rather than brand owners for instruction and information on how to use makeup products. Some of the most influential vloggers globally hail from the UK, including Zoella, Tanya Burr and Lisa Eldridge. All three have attracted millions of followers on their YouTube channels and Instagram, Facebook and Twitter accounts, which feature makeup tutorials, “get ready with me” videos, makeup hauls, demonstrations and reviews. Tanya Burr has also gone on to launch her own eponymous makeup line selling at mass-market prices through discount chain Superdrug. Lisa Eldridge, professional makeup artist and one time collaborator on the Boots No. 7 makeup line, is now the makeup creative director at Lancôme, developing shade palettes and looks for the brand in combination with sponsored YouTube videos.

These, and other digital influencers are responsible for opening up the world of makeup to consumers who need help in understanding how products can work for them. According to YouTube, it’s not just young Millennials who have taken to digital content, 30-50 year olds have been known to go on 4-hour video binges. GenXers have bigger wallets and will be an important target for makeup brand marketers trying to increase their digital footprint. A bigger online presence could well be the key to a successful future for makeup brands.•

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets.
www.thepremiummarketreport.com